Monday, May 27 2013
In the warmer spring months following a fairly cold January and February, we are happy to see many of our cycads in the ground and in containers begin to push new leaves. This winter we had some very cold temperatures, resulting in many frosty mornings, and even a couple hail storms.
 As you might expect, we had a lot of cold damage in the garden. And as a result, March and April of this year, much of my time in the garden was spent removing frost bitten, brown cycad leaves. The damage this year was reminiscent of the damage from “The Winter that Rocked My World”, the blog from December of 2012.
But now that leaves have been cut back, it is easy to see how spring rains, sunshine and longer days have done their magic once again, and these hearty plants are pushing new leaf flushes. This is when it is time to give nature a helping hand and pump this growth with fertilizer.
I have made an effort to grow my cycads using as little chemical fertilizer as possible. I really like the idea of growing nearly all of my plants with organic nutrition. The one time of the year that I break with tradition is when I have plants pushing new leaves. I like the fact that the occasional seasonal shot of a water soluble plant food gives the plant immediate access to absorb useful nutrients.
I know that it can be argued that chemical fertilizer can do more harm than good, but I do use it sparingly and primarily during the time of leaf production. The repeated use of chemical fertilizer can deplete and damage many of the beneficial organisms in a healthy soil, but I don’t think that the occasional use will have a devastating effect on the soil.
After leaves have hardened off, my fertilizer applications include mostly organic components. This helps to feed, repair, and replace colonies of micro-organisms in the soil that may have sustained damage from chemical fertilizer applications.
As you can see, I have taken a middle of the road approach to the application of fertilizer. The debate of “chemical or organic” is likely to persist, but in time, each grower will usually settle on what works for him/her. This feeding process has proven successful for me.
Grow and prosper,
Keith
Friday, April 19 2013
There are several things to consider when in the market for cycads as a signature element in your garden.
Understand Value/Rarity and Plant Size/Age
I combine budget and plant size into one heading because they are, for the most part, directly related to each other. When considering separate plants of the same species, if there are no obvious deficiencies or variations, the plant with the largest trunk (caudex) will have greater value. The caudex is the primary means of measure for determining value. The larger the caudex, the greater the value within each species. This rule doesn’t necessarily apply if one is comparing a large specimen of a common species to a small specimen of an extremely rare species. Having some sense of the relative rarity of each species can help the buyer to make a good decision on valuation.
Understand space requirements for mature plants
A mistake that is all too often made is the failure of the grower to adequately understand the mature size of each species being planted. Do your homework. Cycads typically do not produce fully mature leaves until the caudex has developed to approximately 90% of its mature footprint. In other words, mature size leaves are in direct relation to the development of the mature diameter of its caudex or its “footprint.” Learn the mature size of the caudex and leaves by reading or viewing mature plants, in order to gauge their approximate mature size. Leaf size can vary unnaturally if a plant is positioned in too much sun or too much deep shade. Too much sun can make leaves stay more compact (shorter), whereas too much shade can cause leaves to stretch out or extend in their attempt to reach for adequate light.
Choose an appropriate location for planting
Plant placement is a subject that can make or break the impact of a garden setting. I believe that cycads show best if they are given sufficient space to show their form without competing with other plants or architectural hindrances. In other words, give them the space that their mature form will need. This can be very difficult, especially if you are putting several young plants in the ground. Your garden will likely look somewhat sparse for a few years, but as they mature and fill out, your genius will become evident. It is also important to allow plenty of clearance around the anticipated mature leaf size beside foot paths for maintenance, pool access, and whatever pedestrian traffic your garden may experience. In addition don’t forget to leave plenty of clearance overhead. Under decks or eaves is not the best location for taller growing plants. You don’t want to have to remove them when they get big, if possible.
Understand the sun requirements of your cycad(s)
Another aspect of plant placement to consider is the amount of sun exposure or shade protection that each species prefers. In our southern California climate range, if you are planting within 15 or 20 miles of the ocean, most of the cycads available can take full sun. There are a few, however, that would prefer some shade or filtered sun exposure during the hottest hours of the afternoon. Some of the more tropical species do best with a bit more canopy protection. Further from the ocean, some plants may need more canopy protection.
In closing I hope that these recommendations give you confidence in your next cycad acquisition, and help you maximize your cycad growing experience. Remember that there are not too many absolute rules, and what I have suggested are just my take on certain guidelines that I have found to work for me. Be enthusiastic; be bold; and be wise.
Grow and prosper, Keith
Friday, February 15 2013
For those of you who have grown cycads for at least a few years, you probably have heard repeatedly that the most important rule to observe for the successful growth of cycads is to be certain that they are grown in a well draining soil. This is in reality a very general and somewhat relative concept. I know that many growers have different ideas as to how to formulate a good well-draining mix for cycads. I think that there is no one perfect soil mix. More realistically I believe that cycads in general are quite adaptable, and that there is a fairly broad range of well-draining mixes that are well suited to cycad growth.
I basically classify my soil mixes into two general component groups. Group number one includes a variety of mostly inert components that enable the final mix to permit good water drainage. Specifically some of the primary components that allow drainage are: decomposed granite, small size gravel, coarse sand, and pumice. These are crucial, although these components deliver very little in the way of nutrition to nourish the plant.
Number two is a group of materials that are broadly described as naturally occurring organics. These components provide nutrition to the plant by way of microorganisms in the soil which feed on the decomposing organics and help to provide nutrition that the plant can absorb. These components can be a combination of well-decomposed compost, made up of and leaf mulch, small twigs, and tree bark. There are additionally quite a few organic materials that are processed for sale from local nurseries and big box stores. Some of these components are chicken manure, peat moss, oak leaf mold, steer manure, worm casting, etc.
When varying combinations of each of the aforementioned two groups are combined into a final mix that drains well, then you have produced a soil mix that will be suitable for growing cycads.
I have not given an exact proportion of group number one and group number two materials. This is primarily due to the fact that cycad growers don’t agree on any one formula. This tells me that there is a general range of materials that will work well. Combined elements from groups one and two should be tried and proven, and gradually refined for your geographical location and seasonal conditions. The average range for combining groups one and two would be at 50% of group number one to 50% of group number two. This would be a good place to start a mix if you have never made your own mix before. In time you may learn that certain plants may respond if your mix is altered as much as 5% to 25% for either of the two groups. You may alter either of these two groups to gain more drainage in wetter climates or to gain a little more water retention in dryer climates.
If you try this approach I think you can develop a soil mix that will benefit your plants and promote optimal growth.
Grow and prosper.
Keith
Wednesday, January 16 2013
In my experience as a cycad grower I frequently come across individual plants that display a single unusual characteristic that I have never seen associated with that plant in the past. In nearly all cases it turns out to be what I term as an “example of singular occurrence.” To me this means that I don’t remember seeing it happen to that plant in the past, and it hasn’t persisted in successive years, when the plant repeats the same portion of its growth cycle. When I discuss these occurrences with other cycad growers, the typical response from them is that we were observing a mutation.
I decided I needed to look up the definition of mutation. The dictionary defines it as “any heritable alteration of the genes or chromosomes of an organism.” This caused me to think that if what many of us have been characterizing as a mutation, and a mutation involves the “heritable alteration of the genes or chromosomes,” then why are these alterations or deviations not consistently displayed year after year in the plant, as do other genetic characteristics? Perhaps we are not really observing a mutation at all. Perhaps the term anomaly would be more appropriate. The word anomaly is defined as: “Deviation from the normal or common order, form or rule.” I suppose that these two definitions may be interpreted to have some degree of synonymous meaning. However as defined, a mutation can also be considered an anomaly, but an anomaly isn’t necessarily a mutation, because an anomaly doesn’t have to have a heritable change of genes or chromosomes.
Although this term anomaly may be more acceptable, by definition it still suggests no root cause that would describe what, if anything, physically has taken place to cause cycads to display the “example of singular occurrence.” For me the question remains unanswered. The many influential variables that comprise cycad culture convince me to believe that perhaps we may never be able to connect all of the dots to understand what may cause an “example of singular occurrence.”
An infrequent or unusual manifestation could be the result of any singular or combined number of abnormal or extreme conditions that the plant may experience. This must include any of a myriad of cultural variables, such as: excess or shortage of water, nutrition, heat, cold, dryness, humidity, shade, sun, pests, etc.
It occurs to me now while I ponder the many aforementioned variables that cycads are subjected to in nature, that nearly this entire list of conditions, even in their more extreme form, doesn’t really seem to be that unusual. In other words, the more time I have spent growing, the more often I have witnessed a variety of unusual or extreme examples, which ironically tend to make these occurrences less unusual.
Just perhaps in the overall scheme of things, the occasional example of “singular occurrence” isn’t a mutation or an anomaly at all, but in the big picture of the potentially long lifespan of cycads, these occurrences may be considered the norm.
All dictionary definitions are quoted from the New College Edition of The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language.
Grow and prosper,
Keith
Monday, December 17 2012
As a grower of palms and cycads for the past 40 years I can honestly say that I have enjoyed nearly every minute of it. A memorable exception would be during the winter months of ’03 to ’04 when the temperatures were consistently cold at night and cooler than normal during the day. During one brief stretch the nighttime temperatures ranged from the mid teens to the low twenties Fahrenheit for three to four consecutive nights. Nearly all of my green form Encephalartos cycads showed the effects of severe cold damage, as most of the leaves of each plant had turned brown. To my surprise most of my blue form Encephalartos cycads only showed slight damage. I believe this may be due to the inherent cold tolerance that is common to their native habitat.
After the cold had finally passed, I could assess the full extent of the damage. I had the feeling that I was going to lose most of my larger green form Encephalartos cycads that I had spent many years growing. It was depressing to walk through the garden and see so many brown leaves. It took me about a month before I could pull it together and get to work at the task of cutting hundreds of dead leaves.
When I remove dead or declining leaves off of my cycads, I cut them into smaller sizes and put them in the compost heap, or distribute them around the bases of my cycads and palms, or spread them onto my garden paths. I feel it is important to keep the organic value of leaves and non seed-bearing weed and other organic material in my garden. After removing and dispersing all of the damaged leaves, all I could do was wait and see what would come back as the temperatures warmed up in spring.
As it turned out, most of my cycads survived! Those that didn’t make it were plants that had no canopy protection from the cold, and had a caudex of 4 ½ inches or smaller. I now believe that the greater caudex dimension or mass of the larger established plants is a significant protection against extreme cold temperatures. I don’t think that they could survive indefinitely in those temperatures, but for the temperatures and time frame that I have described, their size/mass was sufficient. I do believe the smaller diameter caudex plants succumbed because the cold temperatures were low enough and long enough in duration to freeze to the core of the caudex.
Spring and summer blessed my garden with many new flushes of leaves and almost twice as many cones as I had had in any prior season. I have heard from other growers that cycads that have endured any of a variety of survivable extreme conditions will often respond by entering into a “survival mode” and produce leaves and/or cones. Although I have no way of knowing to what degree the cold weather setback brought the onset of new leaves and cones, the circumstantial evidence leads me to believe that there is some truth to the “survival mode” response by cycads.
Grow and prosper,
Keith
Wednesday, November 21 2012
For those of us who have become smitten by the allure of growing cycads for the sheer joy of it, there are a few additional aspects of collecting that deserve consideration. Years ago when I began to see mature cycads at many of the well-known public and private garden venues around southern California, I was floored by their mysterious beauty. My desire to one day achieve some measure of the success of these great gardens was a goal worthy of pursuit. Well, I’m certain that my story is a fairly common one, but the reality soon set in that the acquisition of large cycad specimens like the ones that I so admired was proving to be beyond the reach of my starving student budget. It became clear to me that my goals were not going to change, but that my ability to achieve them would just take a little longer than I had originally thought. Early on it was clear that I had chosen one of the crown jewels of the botanical kingdom to pursue.
I know that it seems somewhat shallow to place monetary value on the individual items in one’s collection, but the monetary valuation of cycads is a market reality. And collectors who wish to do so can benefit from this aspect of growing cycads. Cycad valuations are driven by several primary factors: rarity, size/age, and beauty/desirability.
Rarity
The pursuit of the rare is universal to collectors in general. The motivation to acquire what few others have creates a very intoxicating sense of satisfaction for the collector. As with nearly all things collectible that are rare, monetary valuations are commensurate. As it goes with cycads, some of the rarer, harder-to-find species, even of relatively small plants, can run into the tens of thousands of dollars. There are collectors who will willingly pay these prices to acquire these exceptionally rare cycads.
Size/Age
With cycads, size equates to age. This is another factor that affects the valuation equation. Often a fairly common cycad species that has reached mature size can command prices that were once considered unthinkable. Size is the equalizer. Size can push a common species into the rarity valuation column, simply because very large old cycads are somewhat rare, and do not often become available. If you are fortunate enough to have a very rare cycad with great size, then your valuation has compounded.
Beauty/Desirability
For collectors, beauty and desirability are perhaps the purest motivation for collecting cycads. I say this because rarity and size are obvious measures of prestige, an ego response, amongst knowledgeable collectors; however I believe that beauty is more of an emotional response. This does not mean that beauty by itself carries no weight in the scale of valuation, but it doesn’t necessarily seem to be equal to rarity and size. Nor does it mean that rare and large plants are not beautiful. Some species that are very beautiful are relatively common, and therefore command valuations that make them more affordable to the beginning collector. Acquiring attractive affordable cycads is a fairly common pattern for the beginning collector.
Although many collectors consider it taboo to use the term “investment” when referring to their collectible plants, the reality is that the acquisition and competent cultivation of some of the rarer, highly sought-after species can in time out-perform certain well selected financial investment programs. I have personally had individually plants pay back dividends in the form of pups (offsets) and seed crop that returned 10 to 70 times my original investment within a 10 to 20 year period of time.
Again I will emphasize that my original motivation for collecting cycads was not to make a buck in return, but I sure do not object to the valuations gained along the way as my original investments reach maturity and become productive. Not only are cycads beautiful in garden and landscape settings, they are also botanical marvels that can attain great age, and grow in value.
Grow in Value and Prosper.
Keith
Tuesday, October 23 2012
For those of you who are fortunate enough to have coning sized cycads, this is the time of year that your cones should be evident. Occasionally mature coning sized cycads will put out one cone or multiple cones each year. However cones don’t necessarily come every year. Female plants are more prone to skip a year or two between coning cycles to allow the plant to regenerate its food reserves. The female plants use much more of their food reserves than do the male plants for cone production, mostly due to their larger cone size and structure.
For nearly all cycads that are in cultivation and are not in or near their natural habitat, natural pollination does not occur. This is primarily because the native insect species that typically facilitate the pollination process are usually habitat specific and not available to do their part in the pollination process of cultivated plants, which are located outside of their natural habitat.
Hand pollination has proven to be a useful means of producing viable seed for many years. Time does not permit detailed explanation of all of the known techniques of human-assisted pollination. Generally speaking, when male and female plants produce their cones, and when the male cone begins to shed pollen, the human assistant can collect the pollen from the male cone by cutting the cone from the cycad and laying it on a piece of butcher paper (or something similar) for several days in a cool dry area. The male cone will, in time, shed much of the fine pollen grains onto the paper. Lightly tapping the cone over the paper will aid in maximizing your pollen collecting. I have found the garage to be an acceptable location for this process.
Ideally your male and female coning plants will be in sync. The female cone will give subtle signs that it is receptive to pollination. The timing of the introduction of pollen is critical to your success at producing viable seed. The female cones of different genus of cycads can have different indicators that signal receptivity. Most of the closed cone genus female cones, Encephalartos, Dioon, and Macrozamia to name a few, are receptive when the cone scales begin to separate and create openings that allow the insect pollinators to enter to the inside of the cone. The window of time of female receptivity can last as little as a couple of days to as long as a week or two. More studies are needed to assign more definitive time frames of receptivity for each species.
The introduction of pollen is primarily performed in one of two methods. These methods work best on all genus, except the genus Cycas, whose female cone structure is different, and would require an alternate method of pollen application. The “dry method” is to collect the pollen from the paper on which the male cone has been resting. Then pour or puff the pollen with a straw into the central axis of the female cone just below the top cluster of smaller cone scales. Many growers will completely remove one to three of these upper level cone scales to facilitate the dispersion of pollen into the hollow labyrinth of spaces within the female cone.
The “wet method” is achieved by mixing the dry pollen with water in a plastic bottle with a cap and adding a couple of drops of liquid soap (Green Soap), which works as a wetting agent to help the pollen-laden water to coat all interior surfaces of the female cone. Then pour from the plastic bottle ample quantities of pollen solution down through the chambers of the female cone. A squeeze bottle with a pointed spout, a turkey baster, or a large plastic basting syringe can also be used to deliver the pollen solution.
For either method, if possible, repeat the pollination process every few days to increase your odds, as long as you have pollen and as long as the female cone appears to be receptive.
If your male and female cones are NOT in sync, and if the male plant cones first, the pollen can be collected and placed in small air tight containers with a little desiccant, and stored for several months in the freezer. Clearly label the containers with species and date collected.
If your efforts have been successful, you will be rewarded with viable seed, when the post harvest ripening period has been completed and the seed has fully developed. In most cases this takes place within six months to a year. This is another area that could benefit from further study to determine the post harvest ripening periods for the seed of each species. Producing seed is one of the many joys of growing cycads.
Collection and propagation of seed will be discussed in a future blog.
Grow and prosper,
Keith
Wednesday, September 12 2012
I can’t begin to cite the number of times that I have been called to survey an entire collection or partial collection of cycads that had no tags or identification list whatsoever. Since I am familiar with numerous cycads, I am able to identify many based on characteristics such as leaf shape, leaf margins, color, spines, etc. But most collectors don’t know all the cycads or all of their unique features. Throw hybrids into the picture, and you could have an identification problem.
The difficulty of dealing with collections with no plant identification, has led me to emphasize to all cycad collectors the importance of establishing a method of identifying all plant material in your collection. You must ask yourself, “If I suddenly was no longer on the scene to care for my collection, would someone be able to make sense of my plant material?” It seems that cycad collectors, and I suppose collectors in general, often get caught up in the fury of the process of collecting, with little initial consideration as to basic as well as long term care and maintenance obligations for these unique plants. I too am guilty. But provenance is important, especially with these rare beauties that can live to be hundreds of years old, and can pass through the hands of numerous collectors in their life spans.
Care of our collections after we are gone is not a subject that many of us care to consider, but it is a certainty that most of our cycads, given reasonable care, are going to last much longer than we will. Often a family member is left to deal with a collection that they know little or nothing about. Leaving an easily understood inventory of one’s collection, along with some basic care instructions, can eliminate much uncertainty for those who may wish to continue to grow the plants. It will also help to ensure that the plants will be kept in fairly good condition until the transition to other collectors, botanical gardens, or any other chosen entities can take place. Possibly make arrangements now, or at the very least, have an agreement with family members as to your wishes regarding the distribution of your plants.
For any collectors who have a few years into their collections, it is important to realize how fortunate you are to share some of your life experience with these unique plants. With the ownership of cycads, one should feel privileged to have that opportunity, and to not only have a long term plan in place, but also make every effort to learn to cultivate your collection to the best of your ability. Generally speaking cycads are not difficult to grow. Once the basics of cultivation are understood and needs are met, the plants will just do what they have evolved to do. Grow and be productive.
The high cost of ignorance is what really persuaded me to learn all I could to try to get it right. Since I first became interested in cycads in 1972 while attending college, I usually didn’t have much spare change to indulge in my new found interest. So the sting of losing seedlings due to my misguided cultivation techniques ran deep. I must acknowledge in partial defense that in those days there were few people that collected cycads, and even fewer had much knowledge on cultivation. There was very little written, and, of course, the internet did not exist, as we know it today.
In conclusion I feel that as collectors, we all share a responsibility for the short and long term care of cycads. We all should adopt a sense of stewardship toward our collections, and try to accept some degree of awareness as to the immediate care and eventual distribution of our collections. We must understand the whole picture. Cycads are not only a part of our lives, but we are a part of their long life experience. Remember that we should feel privileged to be part of the lives of cycads. If these plants continue to be cared for now and after we are no longer here, they will inspire future generations to be guardians of these living fossils.
Grow and prosper,
Keith
Tuesday, July 17 2012
This is the time of the year when your cycads and associated garden treasures should be thriving.
Cycads may be flushing leaves or in any of many stages of cone development. As you may know the process of producing leaves and cones is very taxing for most cycads. It is rare that a cycad would be able to produce a flush of leaves and cone all in one year, and then repeat the process year after year, even under the most favorable conditions. There are, however other signs that the plant is thriving, which is mentioned below. Since most of us do not have perfect conditions year round, nor do we know precisely what plant food or nutritional requirements each plant has during the growing season, we make an educated guess based on the experience of those who have come before us as well as contemporaries who have demonstrated a measure of success at growing. We also can go on the basic appearance of the plant, and it’s past history of leaf and cone production.
If you have been meeting the needs of your plants during the year, July, August, and September are the months that your plants should be looking their best (in the northern hemisphere). These are your “pay off” months, when you see the fruits of your labor.
Leaves and cones are a relatively obvious sign of growth that we tend to celebrate this time of year. But what about those plants that get the same care as all of the others, but tend to sit dormant during the growing season? Well I have come to realize that just because a cycad does not produce leaves or cones in a season, it does not mean that the cycad is not growing. As cycads mature, there are seasons when a plant may expend its growth in caudex size and/or root development, both of which are not as showy, yet equally important for the health of the plant. This type of growth isn’t always obvious, but I have observed on many occasions healthy plants with a full crown of leaves simply gaining caudex mass. This type of growth can also take the form of pup or offset development.
A sound fertilizer feeding regimen from March through September can help to promote healthy growth that may take the form of any combination of examples previously mentioned. Just remember that with any plant fertilizers, it is important not to exceed the recommended rate of feeding. In hotter dryer areas, especially in the summer months, your cycads can benefit from a top dressing of two to four inches of mulch and organic composted garden material, which helps to keep the soil from drying too rapidly. This material can include dead leaves and pine needles, grass clippings, chipped bark, and even kitchen scraps all of which have been collected and composted or broken down over time. Be sure not to put weeds and their flowers and seeds into this mix for obvious reasons. This organic mix also helps to feed the micro organisms in the soil that assist in breaking down the organic material so that the plants can absorb that nutrition.
Caring for your plants with ample watering, proper feeding, mulching, and, of course, weeding will surely pay off in the form of larger caudexes, healthy leaf crowns, increasing in number and size with each flush, cones, and the appearance of pups along the soil line. Cycads are slow, but there are rewards for your patience.
Grow and prosper,
Keith
Tuesday, June 12 2012
The eternal question for palm and cycad growers is, “What is the best soil mix for my cycads and/or palms?” I have concluded that there is no one mix that is perfect for any one group of plants. More realistically there are many different mixes that have provided growers with modest to very good success. After all if the mix is terrible, then the grower would not be a grower for very long. Each grower that has had a measure of success may often wonder if he/she could improve the soil mix by adding this or that or by altering the percentage of this or that. So success is often achieved by fine tuning several basic ingredients.
The purpose for developing a soil mix formula ultimately is to optimize the growth potential of the plant by providing the best environment for the plant’s root development. Just as a sound foundation is essential to building a skyscraper, a healthy root system is an absolute requirement to growing a healthy plant.
It is not the purpose of this article to give growers a given soil mix formula. I think it is more important to give general guidelines that can help each grower to understand and formulate a mix that will be suitable to his/her particular location and plant material.
Nearly all palms and cycads require soil that drains well. Excessive water retention in the soil mix can rot the root system and lead to the eventual death of the palm or cycad in most cases.
In order to provide good drainage, most soil mixes are primarily comprised of 1) sand, pumice, decomposed granite, and small gravel; and in order to provide food for the plant, soil mixes also are also comprised of 2) organic material which includes leaf mulch, compost, bark chips, etc. The intangible but vital ingredient that is difficult to quantify is the array of micro-organisms that are present in all viable productive soil. These micro-organisms break down and convert mulch and other organic materials into a useful form that can be consumed by our plants.
A plant’s native habitat can help determine the type of soil conditions that will best promote its growth. For example, Encephalartos from the southern 20% of the African continent, further from the equator, experience climatic seasonal changes similar to the southernmost states in the continental U.S. Most of those species experience dryer and cooler seasonal periods than the central African species, closer to the equator, which receive overall warmer temperatures and seasonal monsoonal rains. So those species from the south, further from the equator, can tolerate cooler, dryer conditions, and have adjusted to well draining soil to best resemble their native conditions. Conversely the central African plants from close to the equator can tolerate a heavier percentage of organics in their soil, because they come from a hotter wetter climate. That additional organic material will more closely match the native soils of the central African species.
For all percentages hereafter, the first percentage number shall refer to inorganics, and the second percentage number shall refer to organics. As for making an appropriate soil mix, a good starting point would be a 50% combination of sand, pumice, d.g., and/or small gravel, and a 50% combination of mulch, compost, peat moss, bark chips, etc. These two groupings of material can be modified by altering the percentage from a 50%/50% mix to as much as 33% inorganic to 66% organic for plants native to wetter regions. This mix affords greater water retention, while still maintaining a good degree of drainage, which most palms and cycads need. Conversely for plants that favor a dryer soil mix, something like a 65% inorganic to 35% organic proportion would be appropriate. This will help to facilitate good drainage in the root zone. In addition these plants will likely benefit from more frequent watering as seasonal conditions dry out, because their soil dries out more rapidly. For most cycads, where excessive dry conditions persist, a seasonal (once a year) top dressing of mulch over the root zone helps to keep the soil and roots from drying out too rapidly, and it nourishes the beneficial micro-organisms that feed the roots.
In conclusion, the percentages of sandy to organic all can vary. I have presented just a general guideline that will help the grower who needs a place to start. Again, I would prefer to empower the grower with the ability to reason and understand the needs of the plants, and then to formulate and refine a soil mix that meets those needs. A grower may even choose to have several different formulas, to accommodate the needs of different species of plants, which may hail from different native habitats. And, of course, a grower many need to rework his/her percentages if it is clear from the garden that plants’ particular needs aren’t being met. It’s a little like cooking. If it doesn’t taste quite right, adjust the ingredients.
Grow and prosper, Keith
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